It’s probably an unwinnable debate to determine who is happier to have dell’anima back downtown: the team behind it or the diners in front of their dinners. The restaurant, an inveterate regular on “Best of” Lists, debuted in Abingdon Square in 2007, with much of the same team that still operates it now. In 2018, with skyrocketing Village rents and the tantalizing buzz of Hudson Yards, it picked up and shifted north to Gotham West Market, continuing its legacy without missing a beat. There they enjoyed the increased real estate and a greater number of tables, but the conglomerate shuttered despite dell’anima’s individual success. They knew they had to find a new location.
It didn’t take long to land upon the ritzy townhouse-riddled stretch of Cornelia Street, famous for both its brevity and some of its residents, past and present. The team at dell’anima, most of whom have been loyally employed since its debut, could not be more thriled about the return nearer its roots, just a stone’s throw from the original 8th Avenue and Jane Street location. It replaces the beloved Pearl Oyster Bar of yore, which thrived there for twenty-five years, so it’s rife with good juju. It’s a slightly smaller venue, seating 52 all told, with seating at the bar and tables that comfortably capitalize on every inch of space.
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We’re super happy to be back,” gleams Chef Andrew Whitney, a sentiment whole-heartedly echoed by managers, Jacob Cohen and Danir Rincon. “It’s just better with the brick and mortar,” as opposed to Gotham Market’s sprawling food court-esque format. And the regulars, which dell’anima has never had a problem fostering, are returning, both from the original and Gotham. And Australian couple dining at the bar for the first time since its return were effusive in their enthusiam, giddy with the return to homier circumstances.
The menu remains classic dell’anima, southern Italy-focused but not restricted to that region. Whitney finds inspiration in the bounty of the farmers’ market, as well as going out to eat at the panoply of terrific restaurants in the city, a mentality that illustrates how he and his team operate: not only does their own restaurant function as a family, the whole restaurant industry does. Relationships are symbiotic, especially with his purveyors. He claims nearly 80% of their produce comes from Phillips Farms in Milford, New Jersey during peak season, and now is precisely coming in to that time.
Case in point, a refreshingly juicy and crisp cucumber salad, nestled into garlicky tzatziki… obviously not typically Italian but a sensational showcase for the cukes. More traditional is a simple arugula melange with lemon and parmesan, or a tweaked Caesar featuring endive in lieu of romaine. More substantial starters include perennial favorites such as their roasted Bone Marrow, its richness smacked with charred and pickled onions. Charred Octopus with chorizo, rice and beans, is another staple, which is easily hearty enough for a main course.
They are known for their pastas, however, all made in-house. The Tajarin Carbonara, luxuriously cheesy with speck and pecorino, and the Pappardelle, a ribbon-shaped whole wheat noodle twirled with wild mushrooms have been popular since the original. A seasonal beet orecchiette stunned a brilliant fuchsia, dotted with a flourish of fresh spring peas. Other customer favorites include Pollo al Diavolo, spiked with chilies and their Branzino in Cartoccio, preserving all its natural juices by cooking it enclosed in paper- a welcome divergence from the fish’s typical whole-simply-grilled preparation.
Desserts are canonically Italian, a brief roster including the classic tiramisu and affogato. An incredibly moist almond cake with luscious salted caramel might be the star, though, luxuriously rich but not heavy, a stellar rendition of a simple pairing. Which might be what dell’anima does best…. fundamentally terrific ingredients inspiring perfectly executed recipes under the mastery of a passionate and talented chef. Not too simplistic, but never fussy, like the Goldilocks of Italian cuisine. Soulful, as translates dell’anima into English, and you can taste it in every bite.
Dell’anima
Tel. 212.366.6633
